If you’ve got the urge for the thickest, juiciest, freshest, most mouth-watering burger around, point your carnivore compass to R.F. O’Sullivan’s Pub, in Somerville, Massachusetts.

At O’Sullivan’s, they fire up the grill for about 400 pounds of hamburger every week. These burgers are big. Each belly-busting beast is a half-pound of fresh-ground sirloin. To cook a burger this thick and juicy takes patience, and about 20 minutes.

Frank Sullivan - Owner, R.F. O’Sullivan’s Pub: “People come in, and they get mad, but I explain to them, it’s not like your everyday place, it takes time to cook. And if you don’t like it, I say, ‘I’m sorry, there’s nothing I can do about it. You’re the one losing out.’”

There’s no shortage of selection at O’Sullivan’s. The menu offers over two-dozen types of burgers, all for about seven bucks.

Frank Sullivan: “We have every type of burger, that’s one thing we do... We have burgers with cole slaw on it, Cajun, we have honey mustard burger, Blue Cheese burger, I mean anything you want, we can basically make up.”

The Cape Codder is topped with fresh avocado and melted Swiss. The Black and Blue is a burger coated in fresh ground black pepper then grilled and topped with blue cheese.

It’s a rare restaurant that will still cook a burger rare, but O’Sullivan’s does it without fear.

Frank Sullivan: “We have people who just come in here to eat it rare. Most places now are hard to get a rare hamburger, I’m not afraid to serve it rare. Because I know, myself I eat it that way, I taste the meat myself, and I know it’s quality.”

Before any cook at O’Sullivan’s picks up a spatula, there’s one important lesson he must learn. Don’t squish the burgers!

Frank Sullivan: “That’s the number one rule, is when these chefs come in to cook I say, ‘Do not squish the burgers down. We’re known for a nice puffy burger.’ The way the meat is, if you squish it, like a lot of people do, you’re squishing out the juices, the flavors of it, which is the number one, do not do.”

If you don’t have a hankering for hamburgers, O’Sullivan’s offers other items like a Steak Tip Sub, Coconut Chicken Tenders, and even a Grilled Veggie Platter. But it’s the beautiful burgers that keep everyone smiling at R.F. O’Sullivan’s, a Phantom Gourmet, Hidden Jewel.

A whole book could (and should ) be devoted to pub burgers, but in our experience the one you’ll get at R.F. O’Sullivan and Son, a watering hole in Somerville, Massachusetts, stands above all others. Actually, we shouldn’t say one-the menu lists a few dozen versions topped with all kinds of cheeses, bacon, onion, peppers, salsa, even sausage. Condiments aside, these are superior measures on the charcoal grill, inhaling maximum smoky flavor and remaining succulent enough to demand you tuck a napkin in your shirt collar before the first bite triggers a geyser of beefy juices.

Town Crier - Wednesday, December 7, 2005
Betsy’s Best Bets with Betsy Woods McGuire
Where’s the Beef
Ask not what you can do for your country, ask what’s for lunch. (Orson Welles)

At O’Sullivan’s, owner Frank Sullivan never squishes the burgers. All the regulars know about Frank’s #1 rule for cooking great burgers. Don’t press down on that half-pound.

You’ll also find a long list of appetizers that come in three sizes, along with combos, mix and picks. Some could easily make a meal. There’s surf and turf, cock and bull, fish and chips, any dish you want, any way you wish. Subs, sandwiches, wraps; roll-ups and dogs, not a chance you won’t find something you want. And if you can still eat more before walking out of the door, O’Sullivan’s root beer float is a must: Mug of Old Tyme Root Beer Liquor, vanilla ice cream, seltzer water and whipped cream.

O’Sullivan’s really puts all those boring chain restaurants to shame. The place has zip, life, personality and delicious, reasonably priced food. Frank Sullivan is there overseeing the operation, orchestrating the orders and enforcing the #1 rule, don’t squish the dish. And when things get too busy he even delivers. Talk about a rare find.